As I continue to work Sunday through Friday, it has been a bit of a struggle to make my one day a week off count. Get all the errands run, get some posts written, and, most importantly, spend some quality time with Mrs. Flannestad and our dog Monty.

A while ago Michele got me a copy of David Tanis’ cookbook, “A Platter of Figs“.

I promised to make her some things from it, but after a persimmon cake which wasn’t as good as our usual recipe, I hadn’t gone back and tried anything else.

So for this Saturday night, the first we’ve had together in a while, I opted to do a whole menu.

Feeling Italian (Part 2)

Steamed Fennel with Red Pepper Oil
Roasted Quail with Grilled Raddicchio and Creamy Polenta
Italian Plum Cake

First things first, headed to the Alemany Farmers’ Market Saturday “morning”, with the hopes of finding as much of the produce as possible.

Stopped at the Tomatero Farms stand and were thrilled to find Raddicchio.

Dapple Dandy Plums (my favorites!) from Ferrari Farms.

We only found some questionable looking Fennel, so I hedged our bets with beautiful beets from Blue House Farms.

Also some Maitake Mushrooms from Far West Fungi, part of a sekrit plan to “improve” Tanis’ menu.

After some fortifying Sopes and squash blossom Quesadillas from El Huarache Loco, we headed home with our spoils.

A bit later in the afternoon, we headed up to Cortland, to Avedano’s Holly Park Market, where we perused our meat options.

No quail today, so we consoled ourselves with a whole Chicken (head on!) from Soul Food Farms.  As is usual, there was a little sticker shock with the price of a Soul Food Farms product.  “I just paid what for a whole chicken!?”  As this was our first time with this producer, we crossed our fingers that the flavor, and good feelings from supporting a small producer, would make it worth the price.

Monty and Squeaky Blue Ball (his favorite).

A nice family dog walk at Crissy Field, then back home to start cooking dinner.

Got home, Michele put on the music, while I cut up the chicken and started a simple stock with the chicken neck and back bones.

Made the Plum Cake.

Washed the beets and started them in the oven to roast.

The Fennel was indeed questionable, so decided to reprise a recent invention.

Nose to Tail Beets (or perhaps “Leaf to Root”?)

Ingredients:

1 bunch beets
2 cloves Garlic, sliced
Oregano
Thyme
chile flakes
raisins, chopped
olive oil
Chicken or Vegetable Stock.
salt

Method:

Pre-heat oven to 400.  Cut stems and leaves from beets.  Wash and clean.  Wrap in aluminum foil package, salting and adding a bit of olive oil.  Roast until tender.

Wash Beet greens and stems.  Chop stems into 1/8 inch pieces.  Slice Leaves.  Heat saute pan and add a couple tablespoons olive oil.  Add garlic slices and cook a couple.  Add Beet stems, Oregano, Thyme, salt, and Chile flakes.  Saute until tender.  Add beet leaves and splash in some stock.  Add raisins, cover, and cook until leaves are tender.  Check salt and add more if needed.

When Beets are cooked, rinse under cold water and remove outer skin. Cut into Eighths and add beets to pan with greens and stems.  Toss to mix and serve warm.

Started the Polenta. Roasted the Maitake Mushrooms.

Roasted Chicken.  One of my big issues with the recipe for the Squab was that they didn’t bother to use the fond from the roasting pan.  David! You’ve got a Pancetta and Squab fond, and you’re not going to at least make a pan sauce? Lazy!

So after the chicken was done, I started dripping based roux in roasting pan. Added the Chicken Stock I’d made. Finished pan sauce with Roasted Maitakes and some of pancetta which had been used to wrap the chicken.

Opened the wine.

Drin that bottle.

Carved the chicken and served it forth, perhaps not as beautiful as it would be at David Tanis’ house or Chez Panisse, but what can you do? I’m just a home cook! If it tastes good, I’m done.

Dinner.

And it was a really tasty chicken.  Totally worth the price, for flavor alone.  The good feeling of supporting a small producer, and happiness from making an amazingly delicious special dinner for my wife, were just icing on the cake.  An awesome Saturday night, I definitely made this one count!

Bachelor Dinner.

Boy, I haven’t posted a Bachelor dinner for a while!

But all the recent bachelor dinners have been Jambalaya. There’s only so many times I can post that recipe.

Recently we were visiting family in Wisconsin, and I was called upon to make Guacamole.

When I was doing that, I was reminded I haven’t made any Mexican dishes for ages.

Horror!

So for this Bachelor Dinner, I decided to dig waaaaay back into my past, and make chicken in a tomatillo sauce.  And by way back, we’re talking nearly prehistoric, late-1980s, when I first discovered Diana Kennedy’s “Art of Mexican Cooking”.  I probably made this as a dinner special when I was working as a manager at Pasqual’s in Madison, Wisconsin.

This dish, with its sweet-sour, spicy sauce, when served with corn tortillas and garnished with feta cheese and cilantro is truly one of my favorite flavor combinations. Hard to beat, and the leftovers, (should there be any,) make great enchiladas.

Chicken in a Tomatillo Sauce with Chipotle Peppers

Ingredients:
8 Pieces Chicken Leg and/or Thighs (you could also use chicken breasts, but why would you?)
2 TBSP Olive (or other) oil
1 Pound Tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed
1 can Chipotle en Adobo
3 Cloves Garlic
1/2 White Onion, halved
2 TBSP Pepitas (hulled Pumpkin seeds) toasted and ground
Chicken Stock (maybe)
Honey or Sugar (maybe)
Salt
Cilantro, Picked and Chopped
Feta Cheese (or queso blanco)
Corn Tortillas

Method:
You can go two ways with the Tomatillos. Either poach them or roast them. If you are a traditionalist, a la Diana Kennedy, you will probably poach them. If you are a modern cook, a la Rick Bayless, you will probably roast them. Either way, you want them to be poached or roasted until they feel like little water balloons. They will probably not all reach this state at the same time, so remove them carefully from the water or oven as they cook, and add them to a blender or food processor. If you let them go too long, they will split.  Not horrible, but you’re either losing flavor into your poaching liquid or messing up your roasting pan.  No disrespect to Ms. Kennedy, I roasted them in a pre-heated cast iron pan.

If you are roasting, also include your garlic and onion in the pan. Turn as you do the tomatillos, and remove last after all the tomatillos are cooked through. Add the onion to the blender. Peel the garlic and add it to the blender. Open the can of Chiles en Adobo and grab 3-6, depending on your preference for Spiciness. Chop them roughly and add them to the blender. Add the Ground Pumpkin seeds. Pulse until well pureed. You may need to add chicken stock, if it is particularly dry (unlikely).

While the vegetables are cooking start another straight sided saute pan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the oil. Brown the Chicken on all sides and remove from the pan. Turn off the heat, but leave the oil in the pan. (It should be noted, that in traditional Mexican cooking, with its lack of oil and appropriate cookware, you would not brown the chicken.)

If your saute pan has cooled, turn the heat back on and pour the tomatillo sauce into the pan. Heat briefly and check the seasonings. If it is too tart, add some sweetener. You will need to add a fair bit of salt, as the sauce up to this point is only vegetables. Add chicken to sauce, cover, and cook at a low heat until done, turning the chicken from time to time.

When chicken is done, remove from sauce and place in warmed serving bowl. Turn the heat on the sauce up to high and reduce until the liquid level is similar to apple juice. Pour over Chicken. Garnish with Cilantro and crumbled Feta Cheese. Serve with Corn Tortillas and a side dish.

Serves 4 with a side dish.

Bachelor Dinner.

This is my much “loved” copy of “Classic Chinese Cuisine” by Nina Simonds.

Classic Chinese Cuisine

Hot as it was this week, I decided I would make “Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles” from this book. No way I was creating any more heat than necessary in the house. Plus it is a quick and easy to make dish.

Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles.

This is actually a great weeknight meal, if the weather is intolerably hot or not. If you have these ingredients in your pantry it takes minutes to throw together the sauce, chop a few veggies, and boil the noodles. You can also make it with any other nut butter, if you don’t like Peanut Butter. Almond, Cashew, whatever.

Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles.

Quite possibly the trickiest thing in this recipe is poaching the chicken, without making it dry or tough. Even many restaurants *cough*Pomelo*cough* can’t seem to manage this. If you bring it to a boil too quickly it turns into chewing gum. Ideally, you’d seal it in a cryovac bag with rice wine, ginger, soy sauce, and garlic and sous vide it. Lacking sous vide equipment, place the bone on breast in a pan large enough it can be covered with cold water. Add a splash of soy sauce and rice wine. Crush a garlic clove and a couple ginger slices and drop them in the water. Using medium heat, bring the water up to not quite a simmer. Cover and reduce the heat as low as you can. Continue to cook until the breast reaches 145 at its thickest point and the broth is clear. The dish would also be tasty made with tofu instead of chicken.

Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles.

“Classic Chinese Cuisine” is one of the first cookbooks that opened my eyes and tastes when I was in college and had my first food service jobs. One of the first time I realized that if I followed a recipe from a cookbook, I could make something much tastier than many of the restaurants I had been going to. Chinese cuisine was my first enthusiasm, thanks to this book. “Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles” is one the first recipes I remember making from it. Just between you and me, I checked out “Classic Chinese Cuisine” from the public library. It was due for return on April 22, 1989. I’m sorry if you have been trying to check it out. The “Cold Tossed Sichuan Noodles” were just so good, I knew I needed to make far more things from the book. It’s not something I’m proud of.

Swine Flu, eh.  Twitter, maybe.

But Carne Asada Fries?

Carne Asada Fries

Frankly, if you’re going this route, why not go all the way?  To me, Chorizo, rather than Carne Asada would be doing it up in style.

Edit: My friends over at Married…With Dinner dropped me a note to tell me Carne Asada Fries are something of a Southern California phenomenon.  A friend of theirs recently wrote up a blog post about the subject.  Check it out: Carne Asada Fries. Bong Not Included.

In case you’re wondering where this mad mash up of Canadian Poutine and Mexican food can be had in San Francisco, I spotted it last Friday as a lunch special at Carmelina’s Taqueria in the Millberry Union on the UCSF Parnassus campus.  Perhaps next week, I will risk life and limb for an in the flesh photo.

Iron Chef America

“Watch David Kinch battle Bobby Flay on Iron Chef America on Sunday, March 15. Chef Kinch challenges resident Iron Chef Bobby Flay on the popular Food Network cooking competition TV show.”

No, really, what did you say?  I seem to be having a hard time hearing.  I thought I heard you say Manresa Restaurant‘s chef  DAVID KINCH was going to battle BOBBY FLAY on the Food Network’s show IRON CHEF.

Well, I know I’ll be setting the DVR when I get home tonight.

But if Kinch doesn’t mop the floor with that wannabe cowboy…

Persimmon identification, part two for Tiare.

Fuyu Persimmon

The other sort of persimmon that it is possible you might run across is called a “Fuyu Persimmon”.  As you can see, it has a flatter shape than its cousin the Hachiya Persimmon.

Unlike Hachiya Persimmons, Fuyu Persimmons are edible when still crunchy and firm.  A lot of times you’ll see folks eating them out of hand like apples.  Being a weirdo, I like to peel both apples and persimmons before eating.

Fuyu Persimmon, Cut Up

I’m trying to think of what other food they are most similar to and coming up a bit empty.  Maybe a bit like a crunchy pear, but sweeter and without the acidity?

Few other fun Persimmon facts:

All the persimmons on a single tree ripen at the same time, making them a very seasonal fruit.  Here in the San Francisco area, they are available from early November through Mid-December.

You can let Fuyu persimmons “ripen” until they are pudding-like and soft.

Technically, you aren’t letting persimmons “ripen”.  They are ripe when they are crunchy.  The technical term is “bletting“.  But really, you’re mostly letting them rot a bit.  Other than Persimmons, Quince and Medlars are also at their best after, ahem, “bletting”.

If you don’t have time to allow Hachiya Persimmons time to “blet”, you can just freeze them.  When they thaw again, they will be soft and their astringent character will be gone.

While I’m not someone who usually enjoys a meal of liver or spleen, I’ve always enjoyed a little bit of giblet flavor in things like dirty rice.

Lately, I’ve been adding a bit of chicken giblets to a stuffing I use for winter squash. Very tasty.

Anyway, so I was reading about this week’s chef’s dinner at Magnolia Brewpub and it said they were serving the turkey with Giblet gravy.

And frankly, I’m all about the gravy, stuffing, and potatoes at Thanksgiving.  I really don’t care that much about the turkey, except it is needed to flavor the gravy.

So…

I simmered 1/2 pound of chicken livers in chicken stock to cover with a bay leaf and a sprig of winter savory.

When the chicken livers were cooked through, I strained the liquid through a chinois and added more stock to make 2 cups.

Deglazed the Turkey roasting pan with a cup of white wine. Strained this through a chinois and added to Chicken liver cooking liquid.

Minced one of the chicken livers.

Made a roux based on 2 TBSP of butter.

Added liquid above to roux. Added minced chicken liver. Salt and pepper to taste.

Mrs. Flannestad exclaimed, “This gravy is great and I don’t even like gravy!”

Ahem, I then had to break it to her that it had chicken livers in it.

Definitely “Best Gravy Evar”!

Another of our favorite things is “pudding cake”.

I had a little pie pumpkin I bought around Halloween that has been sitting on the counter for a month now. Wanted to do something with it, but wasn’t up for full on pie.

On a whim, searched the internet for “pumpkin pudding cake” and found this:

Chocolate Pumpkin Pudding Cake

The instructions were a bit odd, but it was the only from scratch Pumpkin Pudding Cake I could find.  All the others called for things like boxed cake mix.  Only after it was too late into the process did I realize it was a vegan recipe.  I guess “VWAV” stands for “Vegan with a Vengeance”.  Sounds a bit menacing to me.

I’m sure they won’t be thrilled to be included in a post that involves chicken livers.

Well, so it goes.

Damn was the cake tasty though.

I was really surprised how rich and tasty it was without involving eggs or butter.

I know as grown up adults and non-shallow individuals we’re really not supposed to be all that attached to “things”. Still, being the person that I am, I do get attached to things. For example, at a recent event I didn’t get my exact stainless 28 oz weighted shaking tins back. How different are individual 28oz weighted mixing tins? Not very. (Well, to be honest the ones I got back seemed a bit flimsier than ones I brought to the event.) Still I was disappointed that I let it happen.

Other times I’m just particular, maybe obsessive, about brands. For example, I pretty much will only use DeCecco dried pasta. I started using it when I was cooking at an Italian restaurant. I like it. I see no reason to change.

(Vegetarians may want to stop reading now.)

One of my favorite steaks is the ribeye.

Steak

I prefer bone in ribeye, but tonight I was dining alone, so tough to justify a steak that big. And I like Niman Ranch’s steaks. Grass fed and corn finished seems to be the best of both worlds.

I grew up in the Midwest, where beef is king. My parents would often buy a “half a cow” and put it in the freezer.  We would eat cow parts for a long time. Summer sausage, steaks, you name it.  We ate a lot of beef. A few years back, when “grass fed” beef started being trendy, I had a grass fed steak in a restaurant. When I tasted it, I realized that this was the beef flavor that I had been missing. The flavor of pasture raised cattle, instead of the rich taste of corn fed, lot raised, beef.

But I still like the Niman-Ranch ribeyes a bit better than most of the purely grass fed steaks I’ve tried so far.  Mostly because they are easier to cook.  It is my understanding that the Niman Ranch cows eat grass or silage for most of their lives in pasture.  Which is good because cows have evolved to eat grass.  Then, shortly before their demise, they are plumped up for a month or two with feed to allow Niman Ranch to bring a fattier, richer, more marbled steak to market.  Compromise, I suppose.

Searing 1

Another thing I am fond of is cast iron. In particular this cast iron pan. When I was shipped off to college by my parents, the first two years I lived in the dorms and survived on cafeteria food and instant ramen made in my hot pot.

The third year, however, I moved out of the dorms and into an apartment.  I soon discovered that I had no cookware, the thermostat on our oven didn’t work (landlord never fixed), and that I only knew how to make one thing, scrambled eggs with potatoes and cheese.  Seeking to broaden my horizons and cookware selections, I headed down to the hardware store and purchased this cast iron pan.

Searing 2

“Why Erik,” you ask, “wouldn’t it have been better to get a non-stick pan, especially since you only knew how to cook scrambled eggs?”  To answer your question, yes, it would have been easier and a lot less messy.  I don’t think I got this thing well seasoned enough to cook eggs for about 5 years.  But that’s me, I didn’t give up and didn’t give in.  No non-stick frying pan for me.  Giving away a bit about my age, I’m gonna say that was about 1985.  So I’ve had this pan longer than I’ve known many of my best friends.  Not that friends aren’t great and all that.  But, if you take care of it well, you can always depend on a cast iron frying pan.

Three Valleys Front Label

I previously mentioned that I enjoy the beers, but another alcoholic beverage I enjoy is wine.  A long time ago, being a pretentious git, I figured the best way to learn about wine would be to read The Wine Spectator.  At the time, big California Zinfandels were all the rage.  Producers like Sky, Mayacamas, Heitz, and my particular favorite Ridge.  I read about one of their wines, Ridge Howell Mountain Zinfandel and it was the first wine I had to have.  It was described as big, difficult, and needing someone of discerning taste to appreciate.  Obviously, this was a wine for me.

Yum.

I searched and searched the wine stores in town and finally found a bottle of the Ridge Howell Mountain Zinfandel.  Can’t remember the vintage, but I’m guessing I spent most of whatever meager weekly paycheck I received at the time on it.  Unfortunately, it was one of those things.  I carried it around from apartment to apartment, state to state, and city to city.  Finally a couple years ago Mrs. Flannestad and I cracked it open.  It wasn’t corked, but with all that travel and turmoil it had probably aged faster than it would have in a nice cool wine cellar.  We should have drunk it about 10 years earlier.

Three Valleys Label

I still really like Ridge’s wines, though they have bowed a bit to modern tastes and lightened many of their offerings.   The little blurb on the back of the bottle talking about making the wine and how long it will probably last in the bottle is always something I have enjoyed.  Three Valley’s is basically their table wine.

Cork

At around $20 a bottle, it’s a nice treat for those tough weeks at work.

Dinner

Plus, it goes really well with a steak and a baked potato.

So anyway, there you go.  Things.  Things and memories accumulate over time.  It’s sad when either are lost.  But probably the memories are more important.

No, not the Steve Martin movie of the same name, (though “Tonight You Belong to Me” does bring back happy memories of the Flannestad wedding festivities,) instead we’re talking about the traditional Jamaican spice blend.

For some reason, I often see jars labeled “jerk” seasoning in grocery stores, not to mention, even more inexplicably, dry jerk seasoning.

Maybe I’m weird, but jerk seasoning really it is not all that hard to make, so to me, the idea of buying it seems crazy. Especially the dry stuff which must essentially taste like sawdust.

Main components of Jerk Seasoning.

Spice
Herb
Acid
Heat
Savory
Sweet

The Spice is almost always provided by the dried fruit of the Allspice Tree (aka Jamaica pepper,”Kurundu” Myrtle pepper, pimento, or newspice) whose botanical name is “Pimenta dioica.” Like all spices, it is best to buy this whole and grind it yourself. Once spices are ground they have a shelf life that can be measured in days. Whole, they can keep for months or years.

The “Herb” is usually just Thyme (aka Thymus vulgaris).

The “Acid” is traditionally provided by vinegar.

The “Heat” is traditionally from Scotch Bonnet or Habanero chiles.

The “Savory” is from Green or white onions and garlic.

And lastly the “Sweet” is usually from sugar.

So let’s play:

1/2 tsp. whole Coriander Seed
2 tsp. whole Allspice
1 tsp. Dried Winter Savory
1 tsp. Dried Chile Flakes
1 tsp. Whole White Pepper
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. Fresh Thyme
1/2 White Onion, roughly chopped
1″ Piece Ginger, thinly sliced against the grain
2 Cloves Garlic, thinly sliced
Juice 1/2 Lime
Juice 1/2 Orange
Splash Flavorful Rum (In Jamaica THE Rum is Wray and Nephew White Overproof Rum)
2 tablespoons Brown Sugar
Drizzle Olive Oil

In a spice grinder (I use a bladed coffee mill) grind the dried spices until they are fine. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, lime juice, orange juice, and olive oil to the bowl of a blender or similar device (even a mortar and pestle). Add the ground spices and sugar. Process until it is a smooth paste.

Smear over your favorite meats or vegetables, allow to marinade for as much or as little time as you have, and grill or roast until cooked.

Dinner

Jerk Marinated Roasted Chicken, Braised Soy Beans with Collard Greens, Flat Bread.

In regards ingredients, I don’t know why I started adding ginger. It’s been years (possibly decades) since I started making this recipe and can’t remember. Ginger is commonly used in Jamaica and the Caribbean, however I can find no traditional jerk recipes that call for it. I used Chile flakes instead of fresh peppers because that is what I had in the house this week. Using Citrus juice for the acid, instead of vinegar.

The best part, or maybe the worst part if you’re the sort of person who prefers the smell of hand sanitizer and cleaning solution to food, is that your house will smell like Christmas for several days after roasting jerk seasoned food. Beats the hell out of potpourri.

Further investigation has more or less confirmed that the Herb used for the Herb Grilling, was indeed Shiso. In an article called, “An inviting herbal accent” the LA Times describes, “It’s a captivating herb that’s sort of cinnamon-y, sort of basil-ish, kind of anise-like. You might catch a note of cumin or curry leaf, along with a hint of citrus.”

Sounds about right.

The wikipedia article on Perilla, or Shiso, also notes that the varieties used in different countries have varying characteristics and potencies. I kind of suspect mine was more the type grown in Vietnam or Korea, as it seemed quite potent, and the leaf edges weren’t as frilly as those I remember seeing in Japanese groceries.

I haven’t seen Shiso used too much in drinks. I know Scott Beatty of Cyrus in Healdsburg uses it in his “Beau Regards” vodka drink and I think I remember seeing it in one or another cocktail in “Food & Wine Cocktails 2008″.

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